Ask Our Experts

Real questions from London homeowners. Direct answers from our NICEIC Approved & Certified Engineers.

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Marcus T. from Wimbledon, SW19

We have a 1920s semi-detached that's never been fully rewired. The circuits are a mix of old rubber-insulated cable and a partial update from the 1980s. We'd like to get it done properly, but we're worried about the disruption - do we actually have to move out, and how long does a full rewire typically take?

electricalworks Engineer

A full rewire on a property of that era is absolutely the right decision - rubber-insulated cable (often referred to as VIR or TRS) degrades over time and presents a genuine fire and shock risk. The good news is that for most families, moving out is not necessary, though it does make the process faster and tidier.

We work in two stages:

  • First fix - All new cabling is run through the fabric of the building. On a 1920s property, this typically means working through ceiling voids, lifting floorboards, and chasing plaster where needed. We use dust sheets, HEPA-filtered extraction equipment, and seal off rooms daily to keep disruption manageable.
  • Second fix - Once decorating is complete (or once you are happy to proceed), we fit all accessories: sockets, switches, luminaire connections, and the new consumer unit.

The new consumer unit will be a fully metal, fire-rated enclosure compliant with the latest 18th Edition Amendment 2 wiring regulations - a significant safety upgrade in itself. A typical four-bedroom period property in South West London takes our team three to five working days for first fix, depending on layout complexity.

We issue a full NICEIC Electrical Installation Certificate on completion, which is essential for your building insurers and any future sale. Learn more about our rewiring service or book a free survey.

Elena S. from Hampstead, NW3

I keep reading conflicting things about solar in London. Our house faces roughly south-southwest and has a fairly large rear-facing roof. We're a family of four with quite high electricity bills. Is solar actually worth it in London given the winters, and what size battery would we need? I don't want to invest tens of thousands and see a poor return.

electricalworks Engineer

This is one of the most common concerns we address, and the honest answer is: yes, solar is very well suited to London - provided the system is sized and positioned correctly. A south-southwest orientation is excellent; you will typically lose less than 8% generation compared to true south.

On winter generation: Solar panels generate electricity from daylight, not direct sunshine. Even on overcast January days, a well-sized array will produce meaningful output. The annual figure for London is approximately 900-1,000 kWh per installed kWp - so a 5 kWp system typically generates 4,500-5,000 kWh per year, covering a substantial portion of a four-bedroom household's demand.

On battery storage: For a four-bed home with typical consumption around 4,500-5,500 kWh annually, we would normally recommend a battery with usable capacity of 9.5-13.5 kWh. The Tesla Powerwall 3 (13.5 kWh usable) is our most-specified solution in this scenario. In winter, when solar generation is lower, the battery earns its return by storing cheap off-peak electricity (via tariffs such as Octopus Go or Intelligent Octopus) and discharging it during expensive peak hours.

On certification and return: Every system we install is MCS certified, which is a requirement for Smart Export Guarantee (SEG) payments - meaning your utility company pays you for surplus electricity you export to the grid. Combined with self-consumption savings, households in North West London are currently seeing payback periods of 6-9 years with warranties extending to 25 years on panels.

We would start with a no-obligation roof survey and a tailored generation and savings report. Explore our solar installations or arrange a free consultation.

David K. from Richmond

We've just ordered an electric car and want a 7 kW home charger installed on the driveway. The house still has what I think is a very old fuse board - possibly from the 1990s with old-style rewireable fuses. Is that going to be a problem, and what does the full process look like from survey to installation?

electricalworks Engineer

An old rewireable fuse board is certainly a point we would address before connecting a 7 kW charger - not least because the 18th Edition wiring regulations and EV charger manufacturers require a dedicated final circuit with appropriate RCD or RCBO protection, which a legacy rewireable board simply cannot provide safely.

Here is the process we follow:

  • Maximum demand assessment - We calculate your existing electrical load against your DNO (District Network Operator, typically UK Power Networks in Richmond) cut-out rating. Most London properties have a 60-100A service fuse; a 7 kW charger draws approximately 32A, so headroom is checked carefully before proceeding.
  • Consumer unit upgrade - In most cases of this age, we recommend replacing the board with a new metal-clad 18th Edition unit, providing individual RCBO protection for every circuit. This also corrects any legacy earthing and bonding deficiencies.
  • DNO notification - Where your existing service requires upgrading, or where a new supply tail is needed, we manage all G99/G98 notifications to UK Power Networks on your behalf. This is a formal process and adds lead time, but we handle it entirely.
  • EV circuit installation - A dedicated 6mm² twin-and-earth or SWA cable is run from the new consumer unit to the charger location, with all containment buried or surface-mounted to a clean, weatherproof finish.

The charger installation itself is notified under Part P building regulations and we issue a Minor Works Certificate on completion. Many clients in Richmond combine this work with the consumer unit upgrade to make one efficient visit. See our EV charging solutions.

Sarah P. - Private Landlord, London

I have two rental properties in London and my agent is saying I need something called an EICR. I've never had one done - how often is it legally required, and what happens if the property fails? I've heard there are different codes and I'm worried about ending up with an expensive bill if something is flagged as dangerous.

electricalworks Engineer

Your agent is absolutely right to flag this. Under the Electrical Safety Standards in the Private Rented Sector (England) Regulations 2020, all private landlords in England are legally required to have a valid Electrical Installation Condition Report (EICR) for every tenanted property. The report must be carried out by a qualified person - our engineers are NICEIC approved - and must be renewed at least every five years, or at the start of each new tenancy if sooner.

What the condition codes mean:

  • C1 - Danger present: Requires immediate remedial action. The installation poses a risk of injury. We would advise you and, where necessary, isolate the affected circuit on the day of the inspection.
  • C2 - Potentially dangerous: Urgent remedial work required. The report is classed as unsatisfactory and you have 28 days from receipt to complete the remedial work and provide your tenant with evidence of completion.
  • C3 - Improvement recommended: The installation is satisfactory for continued use but improvement is advised. This does not make the report unsatisfactory.
  • FI - Further investigation required: Work cannot be completed without further investigation. We would arrange a follow-up promptly.

Where a property returns a C1 or C2, we provide a clear, itemised remedial quotation immediately after the inspection so there are no surprises. In many cases - particularly for older consumer units, missing RCD protection, or bonding deficiencies - the remedial work is completed within a single follow-up visit, well within the 28-day statutory window.

We work with a number of London landlords on a rolling EICR schedule across their portfolios, which simplifies compliance considerably. Read more about our EICR service or contact us to arrange inspections across both properties.

Oliver J. from Islington, N1

We've just had our rear garden landscaped and we want to do it properly with architectural up-lighting, path lighting, and smart security lighting that integrates with our existing Philips Hue and Ring setup. We also want a weatherproof power point near the patio. What does a project like this involve technically, and is it something your team handles end to end?

electricalworks Engineer

This is exactly the kind of project we love - it combines clean technical installation with a result that genuinely transforms a space. Yes, we handle it entirely from design and cabling through to smart commissioning.

Cable infrastructure: All garden circuits require armoured cabling. We use SWA (Steel Wire Armoured) cable for all underground runs, buried to the depth specified in BS 7671 (typically 500mm under garden areas, 600mm under driveways), and terminated into IP65-rated enclosures at surface level. This protects against accidental penetration by garden tools and meets the requirements for outdoor installations.

Lighting specification:

  • Architectural up-lighters and spike-mounted path lights are selected to an appropriate IP rating - IP65 minimum for above-ground fittings, IP67 or IP68 for any in-ground or recessed fixtures subject to water ingress.
  • We run a dedicated low-voltage (12V or 24V DC) transformer circuit for landscape luminaires where required, which greatly extends lamp life and simplifies future bulb replacement.
  • Security lights with PIR are installed on a separate switched circuit so they can be controlled independently from the feature lighting.

Smart integration: We install smart in-wall switches or smart relay modules (compatible with Zigbee/Z-Wave/Wi-Fi depending on your ecosystem) into an IP-rated outdoor enclosure. This allows your Philips Hue app to control the garden zones seamlessly. For Ring integration, the security lighting circuit is wired to a smart plug or relay that Ring's bridge can trigger via your existing hub.

The patio weatherproof socket is installed as a dedicated spur from the house ring final or as a new circuit, housed in an IP66-rated socket enclosure with a robust spring-flap cover - tested and certified under Part P. See our outdoor lighting installations or book a design consultation.